Monthly Archives: September 2014

The Royal Falooda

Falooda are fresh sev (thin vermicelli style noodles) made from cornstarch.

Falooda could be seen as a microcosm of Indian food as it has several of the hallmark features that characterize this nation’s cuisine

1. It’s complicated.

2. Spelling variations

Falooda, faluda, faloodah

3. Variations

A small mound of cooked falooda drizzled with rose syrup can be served with kulfi (an ice-cream made from reduced milk, sugar, nuts and saffron). This dish is properly referred to as ‘kulfi falooda’ but it is often just called falooda.

Falooda is also a drink cum dessert. It is alternatively sipped and eaten with a spoon. The basic formula is some type of starchy or gelatinous ingredients such as falooda (the noodles), tapioca pearls, jelly or takmaria/basil seeds layered into a tall glass with cold milk, rose syrup and crushed nuts poured over.

Semiya (wheat flour vermicelli) are sometimes substituted for ‘falooda’ noodles.

P1010060

kulfi falooda

  1. Variations of versions

Ice-cream (of various flavor) has become a popular addition to falooda (the drink cum dessert). This turns it into something like a cross between a milk-shake and an ice-cream sundae or a somewhat more liquid variation of kulfi -falooda. This variation might be referred to as shahi or royal falooda (see recipe for my take on this). Dried or fresh fruit such as banana, mango or grapes might also be added.

A regional specialty of Madurai in Tamil Nadu is a drink cum dessert called jil jil jigarthanda (variously translated as ‘cool cool heart’ or ‘cool liver’) made from sweetened reduced milk mixed with small pieces or pearls of agar-agar jelly (kadal paasi) , nannaari (syrup made from Indian sarsaparilla/hemidesmus indicus ) and ice-cream. Jil jil jigarthanda is said to have been developed in Madurai by Arab or Muslim traders come into the city (see history) and some versions include rosewater and nuts which makes the connection to falooda more obvious.

Famous Jigarthanda Madurai

Famous Jigarthanda Madurai

  1. A history (with variations)

Falooda belongs to a family of Indian sweet items, such as halwa, jalebi and kulfi, of Persian/Middle Eastern origin. It is said to have come into India with the Mughals (who looked to Persia as their cultural model). The fourth Mughal emperor Jahangir (ruled 1605-1627) was reportedly found of falooda eaten with cream and fruit (which suggests the noodles rather than the drink). An alternative theory is that it came into India with the Persian king Nader Shah when he invaded India and toppled the Mughals in 1738. He only stayed around for a year though spending this time looting and pillaging rather than embedding a cultural imprimatur so I am going to give it to the Mughals.

Falooda was originally an ice based concoction (it still is in Iran). Ice was an expensive and luxurious commodity in India (and elsewhere in the world*) up until the early 20th century, making chilled items the prerogative of the wealthy. Now that refrigeration is widely available the milk is usually pre-chilled although ice may still be added; if ice-cream is added that serves the same purpose as ice. Ultimately what is important is that the falooda is cold and therefore cooling.

  1. It’s all about digestion

A distinctive ingredient of falooda is turkmaria or basil seeds. These are soaked in water prior to use causing them to swell and become like a soft jelly (resembling frogs eggs). When used in falooda it serves more as a textural component than flavor element. Turkmaria is reputed to have various health benefits such as aiding digestion, cooling the body, relieving stress and minimizing appetite.

  1. Contribution to world food

Many of us (in western countries at least) understand basil (ocimum basilicum) as a fresh herb of Italian/Mediterranean origin but it is actually native to India/Asia and is considered to have first been cultivated in India 5000 years ago. Since that time it has spread widely resulting in many different cultivars in use across the globe. It took a lot of searching to ascertain the variety, ocimum pilosum, from which turkmaria is harvested from the flowers. I do not claim absolute certainty on this though because I could not understand the finer details of the scientific language used to classify plants.

Recipe

The Royal Falooda

photo photo

While researching The Penguin Food Guide to India I enjoyed a particularly fabulous and rejuvenating ‘royal Falooda’ one hot steamy afternoon at Aswad Upahar in Mumbai. For a recent lunch at Merricks General Store I used this particular experience as the inspiration for dessert. I did not think that a falooda in its drink form would be suitable so I added an influence of colonial India and turned it something more like a trifle/parfait. I serve it layered in glasses. I do not have specific recipes for any of the layers so I will just describe these as each is easy to make. If you make this in summer you could also add a layer of finely diced fresh mango (a fruit native to India)

As texture is a feature of this dessert do not put it together too far in advance or you will loose the crunch of the pistachio macaroons. If you are going to pour the jelly directly into the glasses/containers make it up and allow it to cool and then pour a thin layer and refrigerate it (it should set within 20-30 minutes). Sprinkle the cashew nut brittle on just before serving so that it retains its crunch.

Layers (from the bottom up)

  1. Poach thin rice vermicelli noodles in sweetened coconut milk flavoured with cardamom (I let the coconut milk reduce so that is thicker and sticks more to the noodles). If the coconut milk it too runny just lift out the cooked noodles with tongs or a slotted spoon and put them into the bottom of the glass and cover with a tea spoon or two of the milk (you don’t want it to be too runny).
  2. Pistachio macaroons made he old fashioned way – not the shiny uniform ones you get everywhere now- from egg whites, sugar and ground pistachios . It does not matter if these are ‘rough’ as they will be broken up into the glass.
  1. Thick (real) vanilla custard
  1. Rose water jelly.

To make this I prepare a sugar syrup (500 ml water to 500 gm. sugar) that I flavor with rose water and a tiny bit of pink food colouring. Make this up into jelly as per the instructions for the gelatin product you use. You can either pour it directly as a layer in the glass or pour it into a tray and slice it up into cubes when its set and put these into the glass.

  1. Cashew nut praline. I make a toffee with cashew nuts and when it is set I roughly crush it for the final layer.

Enjoy.

*In areas where snow and ice are naturally occurring chilling or freezing items would not have been a novelty (more likely that frozen food would have been an annoyance/pitfall in such places). It was only the rich who could afford to build ice-houses to store ice for year round use, or in the case of the Mughals the manpower to have it transported from cold mountain regions.