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Peel Me An Apple

Posted in recipes on December 1st, 2010
When was the last time someone peeled you an apple? When you were child?
Perhaps it was as a romantic gesture?
I arrived at Dr Rashid’s home in Chamba, in the far northwest corner of the state
of Himachal Pradesh, dusty and dehydrated after an 8 hour bus journey (I find
it prudent to not drink anything on long bus journeys in India: there are rarely
toilet facilities available for women where the buses pull in for refreshments,
and if there are they are often horrendous …but I will spare you the details as
they won’t gel well with a blog about food …let’s just say that dehydration is
preferable).
Dr Rashid immediately proffered a glass of ice cold water and offered me tea
(which I was hoping he would). He then opened the small refrigerator in the
corner of his room and took from it a large red delicious apple: the fruit of his own
orchard.
He sat cross legged on the bed cum sofa and set to removing the peel from the
apple with a small knife. Slowly and purposefully he drew the blade between the
skin and the flesh separating the peel. This caused it to bob gently up and down
as it grew in length and formed itself into a spiral, its cells retaining the memory
of the flesh they had enclosed only seconds before.
Once he had disengaged all of the peel he altered his grip on the knife in his
hand and began to carve the apple in crescent shaped pieces. Another change
of grip and he removed the seeds and core. In the space of 10 minutes watching
Dr Rashid perform this process had lulled me from my ‘just off a bone crunching
bus ride’ state of mild agitation to one of ‘all is well with the world’.
As is the custom in India the apple pieces were presented to me on plate placed
on a tray, imbuing the offering with a further graciousness. I could do nothing less
than bite into the crisp cool pieces with reverence.
This was not the only apple that has been offered to me in Chamba. Yesterday in
the home of Mohammed Hamid his wife Ayisha peeled and pared one for me and
served it sprinkled with salt: something that might sound like a counterintuitive
addition but it only served to heighten the sweetness of the fruit.
Apples are grown throughout Himachal Pradesh although they are not an
indigenous species. It was the British who recognized the potential to grow
orchard fruits here and introduced apples, pears, apricots and plums to the
region in the nineteenth century. Apples have become the most economically
valuable crop of Himachal (cannabis is the second most important).
Himachali’s enjoy eating apples as a snack but my investigations so far have not
uncovered any use of apples in cookery in Chamba (or elsewhere in Himachal
Pradesh). Perhaps this is because it is a relatively new food (in the Indian time
scale) and has not yet been assimilated into the local cuisine (cannabis on
the other hand is an ancient crop and its seeds are ground to make a —non-
intoxicating—chutney).
Therefore to give you an apple based recipe I have had to turn to the neighboring
valley of Kashmir where apples and other orchard fruits have been grown for
many centuries and are commonly used in cookery. I will claim two other —
admittedly tenuous —precepts for giving this recipe while I am in apple recipe
free Chamba. Firstly Mohammed Hamid (you will get to taste the food he made
for me in an upcoming post) lives in the Kashmiri Mohalla (neighbourhood) of
Chamba and both he and Dr Rashid are Muslim and the valley of Kashmir has a
majority Muslim population.
Apple Salad
Serves 6
Ingredients
¼ cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons finely chopped mint
¼ teaspoon cardamom seeds, ground
2 tablespoons lime juice
½ green chili, seeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
3 medium sized apples, diced
3 tablespoons chopped walnuts
Method
Blend the yogurt, mint, ground cardamom, lime juice, chili and salt in a bowl.
Fold in the apples and walnuts. Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Malabar Coast fish kofte with coconut sauce

Posted in recipes on July 29th, 2010

Malabar Coast fish kofte with coconut sauce
Serves 6
Ingredients
500g white fish fillets
½ tsp turmeric
1 ½ tsp white vinegar
3 shallots, grated or minced
2 green chilies, finely chopped
2 tsp ginger paste
2 tsp dried coconut
the zest of one lime

Sauce
1 tbsp garlic paste
2 tsp ginger paste
1 tsp cumin seeds
I red onion, grated
1 tsp white poppy seeds ground to a paste*
½ cup yoghurt
½ cup thick coconut milk
50g butter
fresh coriander leaves
vegetable oil for cooking

Method
To make the kofte
Cut the fish into chunks. Mix the turmeric and vinegar with a little salt. Marinate the fish in the vinegar mix for 30 minutes.
Drain the fish and process it in a food processor with all the remaining ingredients. Do this on the pulse setting as you want the fish to retain some texture; it should come away from the sides of the processor jug and form a large ball (just as dough does)
Shape into golf-ball size balls gently between the palms of your hands and then slightly flatten them so that are more disc like.
Place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
You can choose to gently shallow fry or steam the kofte. Set aside when cooked.

To make the sauce
Mix the garlic and ginger pastes with a little water to make a paste.
Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a wok or a heavy based pan over a medium-high heat. When hot add the cumin seeds and allow them to ‘pop’ then mix in the onion and stir until it softens a little. Mix in the garlic and ginger and the poppy seed paste and stir for 2 minutes. Stir in the salt and then the yoghurt and stir for 1 minute.
Stir in the coconut milk. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the sauce for 10 minutes. Stir the butter into the sauce.
Just before serving slide the kofte into the sauce and allow to warm through. Serve garnished with fresh coriander leaves.

* White poppy seeds are available from some Indian grocery stores and can be difficult to find. If you can’t get any please do not substitute black poppy seeds – these are not the same thing and they make the sauce look like black sludge. The best substitute is raw cashews or blanched almonds.

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